Pruning:
If you haven’t pruned yet, this should be a priority task. Pruning is one of the most important nursery tasks to produce a quality tree.

If you have pruned but haven’t been back through your trees, now is a good time to check and make sure that the central leader you chose when pruning is still the dominant “stem” at the top of the tree. If not, remove or shorten side branches competing with it.

If you have a very dominant central leader and little or no branching, you may need to head back or prune out the top portion of the central leader back to a bud. Train the growth that comes from that bud to be the new central leader.

It is important not to wait any longer to train central leaders. As the season progresses the stems will become less pliable.

These trees have very dominant central leaders and no branching. The tree in front was pruned to a small branch at 6.5 feet. This will help dormant buds break and branches form along the portion of the trunk 12 - 18" below the cut, to about 5 feet. Five feet is where permanent branches need to start on shade trees. The topmost branch will become the central leader. One of the following 3 methods will have to be used to make it straight:

Method #1 Cut the old central leader to 3-4" above a bud or small branch. As new growth emerges from the bud/small branch tape it to the stub left on the old central leader to force it into a straight, vertical position. Use masking tape, 2-4 wraps. You should remove the stub left after the masking tape disintegrates. (See photo.)

Method #2 When no central leader exists, but there are two branches to pick from that are equally vigorous and/or vertical (often happens on maple), tape the two branches together. Come back in a month and cut out the weaker, less straight leader.

Method #3 When there is no central leader and one obvious branch exists to make into the new central leader, tie a section of a stake to the top of the trunk, extending it into the air above the top of the tree. The branch is tied to it in a vertical position.

Insects:

Leafhoppers on maple have been seen, even on Acer rubrum Red Maple ‘Sun Valley’. Spray to prevent leaf curling, cupping and dried areas (hopperburn) on newest leaves. In addition to the direct damage that the leafhoppers cause (severe stunting, extensive foliage damage, and multiple leaders), damage can also reduce winter hardiness of affected shoots. Sevin, Diazinon, Dursban, Talstar, Tempo, Scimitar, and Battle have been labeled for this use. Check label before use.

Source: U.T. Pub. PB1589 Commercial Insect and Mite Control for Trees, Shrubs, and Flowers, Revised Feb. 1999.

Diseases:

Powdery mildew should be controlled on Dogwood to reduce stress and maximize growth.

Effective fungicides include: azoxystrobin (Heritage), fenarimol (Rubigan), myclobutanil (Eagle, Immunox), propiconazol (Banner Maxx), thiophanate-methyl (Cleary's 3336), and triadimefon (Bayleton, Strike). When using fungicides for powdery mildew management, be sure that dogwoods are listed on the label and carefully follow all label directions.

Photo courtesy of Dr. Mark Starrett.

Source: Kentucky Pest News, Article 925, July 16, 2001.

Cultural:

If ridges were created at planting or afterwards, check the depth and make sure the planting depth is correct. The tree should be set at the same depth it was planted at the liner nursery. The trunk should not be buried. If ridges are left in place tree health can suffer and artificially shallow root balls will be dug, leaving much of the root system and the tree’s chance of survival back in the field! Ridges can be removed by hand with a shovel